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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.